by Andrea Tavolacci, a food and wine expert from Perugia
When I first set out to explore Croatian wines, I didn’t really know what to expect. I’d heard about the coastline, the islands, the Mediterranean cuisine… but the wine? That was an entirely new world. So, glass by glass, I let myself be guided by five native Dalmatian grape varieties, each telling a different story of the land. And now, I’d like to share them with you.
It all started with a deep, intense red from the rocky hillsides near Primošten: Babić. The vineyards there are literally carved out of stone, and the wine reflects that ruggedness. A sip of Babić feels like biting into a sun-drenched black cherry, with layers of dried herbs, spice, and a salty edge that lingers. It’s not a wine that tries to please everyone: it stands its ground. That’s exactly what drew me in.
Then came something rare and fascinating from the sunlit terraces of Korčula: Grk. Grown almost exclusively in the village of Lumbarda, this white grape is a botanical anomaly – it only has female flowers and needs other grape varieties nearby to pollinate. But what it offers in the glass is pure magic: white peach, citrus zest, Mediterranean herbs, and a distinct salty minerality that instantly reminds you of the sea. Elegant, mysterious, and unforgettable.
Later, I had the pleasure of tasting a variety I thought I already knew, only under a different name. Crljenak Kaštelanski is the long-lost Croatian ancestor of California’s beloved Zinfandel. Thanks to passionate winemakers and genetic research, it’s making a quiet comeback near Split. Its wines are fruit-forward and soft, but with a certain Adriatic wildness. It felt like meeting an old friend with a brand-new story.
On Hvar, I discovered something gentler: Bogdanuša, which literally means “gift from God.” And it lives up to the name. Delicate floral aromas, a light body, and an effortless drinkability make it the perfect sunset wine: the kind you share over easy conversation, without needing anything more.
Finally, Pošip surprised me with its structure and depth. It’s a white wine with soul: ripe apricot, hints of wild herbs, and just enough freshness to keep you coming back. Perfect with grilled fish, but I enjoyed it just as much on its own, letting its complexity unfold slowly.
If you come across one of these wines, don’t hesitate. Let them guide you, just as they did for me. One sip at a time, I discovered a part of Dalmatia I’ll never forget.
